Santa Cruz La Laguna Stole My Heart: A Slower, Wilder Side of Lake Atitlán

Why Santa Cruz is the off-the-beaten-path destination you didn’t know you needed

By Rebecca Moy When I first arrived at Lake Atitlán, I didn’t expect Santa Cruz La Laguna to be the highlight. I came chasing volcano views and a break from screen time. But the longer I stayed, the more I realised how special it was to simply exist here for a while. Hi, I’m Rebecca Moy. I’m 27, from England, and for the past three years I’ve been living out of a backpack and working from wherever I can find decent Wi-Fi. I’ve visited 29 countries, and I’m currently based in Barcelona—but last year, I spent two months in Guatemala. Most of that time was in Santa Cruz La Laguna.

In this blog, I’ll share:

• Why Santa Cruz is different to anywhere else on Lake Atitlán
• The moments and experiences that made it worth the stay
• My personal tips for planning your visit

Landing in Lake Atitlán: My First Glimpse of Santa Cruz

My first glimpse of Santa Cruz was from the back of a lancha heading out from Panajachel. I lucked out with the weather—clear skies, warm sun, and the lake was unbelievably still. The surface looked like glitter, catching the light in all directions. I’ve been to Lake Como in Italy, but honestly? It didn’t come close to this.

As we pulled in, Santa Cruz looked and felt different. There’s one main road that climbs straight up the hill into the Maya village above, but the tourist side of town is stretched out along the lakeshore—only accessible on foot.

Insider tip: If you’re staying at one of the lakeside hotels, you’ll be walking. Some, like Los Elementos, have private docks (lifesaver if you’re hauling bags!).

Where I Stayed (and Why I Stayed Longer)

I stayed at Los Elementos Adventure Center, which also happens to be the base for Kayak Guatemala.

Why I loved it:

• Small, peaceful, and family-run
• Lee and Elaine Beal (the owners) live on-site with their adorable pack of dogs
• Beautiful casitas with private kitchens, bathrooms, and lake views, choose from the wooden house (1 bedroom), the lakeside cabin (1 bedroom) or the lakeside house (2 bedrooms).
• Feels more like staying at someone’s home than a hotel

You can book through Airbnb or Booking.com, but it still feels under the radar.

Kayak Guatemala is also based here. Lee and Elaine started the business 20+ years ago with just kayak tours—now they offer over 25 adventures and employ local guides from the lake communities. It’s not just a great tour company—it’s one with real social impact.

I planned to stay a few days. I stayed a few weeks.

Mornings on the Lake: Kayak First, Coffee Second

The best time to be on the water is early morning. It’s calm, quiet, and stunning. The light hits just right, the volcanoes are glowing, and all you can hear are birds and your paddle dipping into the lake.

I tried paddleboarding for the first time here. It’s harder than it looks—balancing is no joke—but a fun way to explore. That said, for longer distances or checking out hidden caves, kayaking is way easier.

Insider tip: Kayak Guatemala has double and triple kayaks, which I loved. My boyfriend and I paddled across the lake to Panajachel (about 45 minutes), and I won’t lie—I let him do most of the work.

And when you want to stretch your legs instead of your arms, there’s an even more scenic way to explore nearby: by foot.

The Walk Up the Hill: Meeting the Real Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is really two places in one. “Lower” Santa Cruz is what most travelers see—lakeside paths, eco-hotels, yoga spots, and a quiet, peaceful vibe. But the actual village—the one where most of the local people live—is way up the hill.

You can walk up, but it’s pretty steep and gets the heart rate going fast. Most people hop in a tuk-tuk at the dock (totally worth the few quetzales). The walk back down, on the other hand, is easy and gives you time to take in the views.

Heading up there was one of the most eye-opening parts of my stay. You get to see the full picture—not just the curated version of Guatemala for tourists. It’s where you’ll see school kids in uniform, women balancing baskets of produce on their heads, and men working construction jobs or running small shops. It's raw, real, and full of life.

TIP #1: One place I highly recommend visiting is Amigos de Santa Cruz, a local NGO doing seriously impactful work. They’re helping locals—especially women and young people—build careers in tourism through training in things like English, guiding, cooking, and artisanal crafts. One of the staff told me that between 70–90% of the population lives in poverty around Lake Atitlán, and initiatives like this are playing a big role in turning things around.

TIP #2: While you’re there, stop by their restaurant, Café Sabor Cruceno. It’s up on a terrace with unreal views of the lake, and all the profits go directly back into the NGO. They serve both traditional Guatemalan food and international dishes, plus great coffee. It’s a great way to support the community and learn more about how tourism is shaping the local economy.

TIP #3: Another must-do if you want a more immersive experience is a cooking class with Alicia. She welcomed me into her home and taught me how to make pepian de pollo, a traditional dish usually served on birthdays and special occasions. It was warm, personal, and easily one of the most memorable experiences of my trip.

Hiking Without the Crowds

Not every adventure in Santa Cruz has to involve a kayak. One of my favourite low-key experiences was the hike from Santa Cruz to Jaibalito.

This trail is part of the famous “lake path,” and it’s honestly one of the most accessible hikes around Lake Atitlán. It takes about 30–45 minutes, depending on how often you stop to take photos (which you will).

What makes it special isn’t just the views—though those are incredible, with a mix of lakeside cliffs, forested shade, and open panoramas. It’s also the feeling of walking through real, everyday life. The trail weaves past tiny local villages, homes, and cornfields. You might pass a woman weaving, kids playing, or a man leading a donkey. It’s relaxed, safe, and not touristy at all.

Insider tip: This is a great hike to do solo or with new friends you’ve met at your hotel. If you prefer context and stories along the way, Kayak Guatemala offers a guided version of the trail as part of their walking tours - this also incldudes a tour of the forementioned NGO.

Even though Santa Cruz feels tucked away, it’s surprisingly well-connected. Here’s why it makes such a great base for exploring the lake.

The Perfect Base for Exploring Lake Atitlán

Even though Santa Cruz feels remote, it’s surprisingly easy to get around.

Lanchas (public boats) run regularly and connect all the lake villages. You can reach:

• San Marcos – wellness retreats, yoga, cliff jumping, cafés
• San Juan – local art, women’s weaving co-ops, Maya culture
• San Pedro – backpacker-friendly with nightlife and language schools

Recommended: Three-Village Boat Tour with Kayak Guatemala

A guided trip that visits:

• San Marcos, for its relaxed energy and lakeside scenery
• San Juan, where you can meet local artists and weavers
• Santiago Atitlán, one of the most culturally significant towns on the lake, known for its spiritual history and traditional culture

Why it's worth it: The local guide offers deep context, not just tourist trivia. It’s a cultural experience, not just a checklist.

After a day out exploring, you'll be hungry. And luckily, Santa Cruz has a few great places to eat—if you know where to look.

Eating Out in Santa Cruz: Where to Go

There aren’t many restaurants in Santa Cruz, but the ones here are full of charm and flavour.

My favourites:

• La Iguana Perdida – Communal dinner (70Q) with fellow travelers. Hearty meals, long tables, no frills—just good vibes.
• Colibrí Restaurant – Peaceful garden spot with seasonal dishes and strong coffee. Perfect for brunch or lunch.
• Holy Tortillas – Great for tacos, smoothies, and vegetarian options near the dock.
• Rinconcito Chapín – Local-style restaurant in the upper village. Affordable, authentic Guatemalan food.
• Casa Prana – Upscale eco-hotel with a beautiful setting (call ahead if you're not staying there).

Insider tip: Many places require advance booking or only serve guests, so plan ahead!

Looking for unforgettable cultural experiences? Here are a few of my top picks.

Planning Your Trip with Kayak Guatemala

Some of my favourite tours I did through them:

✔️ Cooking class with Alicia – A local, immersive experience ✔️ Mayan fire ceremony – A beautiful way to connect with indigenous traditions ✔️ Walking tour + NGO Tour – Cultural context

Why I recommend them: No gimmicks. Just authentic, community-led experiences that show you the real Guatemala.

📩 Email them at booking@kayakguatemala.com to plan your trip 🌐 Or browse tours at: www.kayakguatemala.com

Final Thoughts: Why Santa Cruz Left an Impression

Santa Cruz doesn’t try to impress you. It just is.

It’s quiet. It’s real. It gives you space to slow down and be part of something more grounded than a resort itinerary. Whether you're kayaking, hiking, or sitting with a coffee watching volcanoes shift in the light, it's a place that stays with you.

If you're coming to Lake Atitlán, don't skip Santa Cruz. It's not flashy—but it might just be your favourite stop.